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2 дня в Асо

5 ноября, 201612 мая, 2019, Япония
  • Назад
  • Вперёд
Заметка является частью серии Япония 2016
Остальные заметки
  • Токио 2016
  • 3 дня в Никко
  • Вилла Тамодзава
  • Арима Онсэн
  • Кокура 2016
  • Уса Дзингу
  • 2 дня на Кунисаки
  • Кицуки
  • Юфуин
  • Сага: шары, которые не полетели
  • Карацу Кунти
  • Замок Карацу
  • Шары в Саге
  • Арита
  • 2 дня в Асо
  • Святилище Кокудзо
  • Святилище Симомия
  • Hotel Greenpia Minamiaso
  • Источник Сиракава
  • Святилище Амано Ивато
  • Такатихо
  • Яманами Хайвэй
  • Курокава Онсэн
  • Киото 2016

Впервые я побывала в Асо в далёком 2005 году, влюбилась в это место и с тех пор мечтала поехать ещё – такая возможность представилась 11 лет спустя. Многое изменилось за эти годы, я повзрослела и приобрела новые полезные навыки, поэтому, в 2016-м году ездила не на общественном транспорте, а на взятой напрокат машине – так исследовать Асо намного проще, и увидеть можно намного больше.

Пару слов о том, что такое Асо. Если коротко, то это вулкан – один из многочисленных вулканов Японии, но совершенно непохожий на остальные. Асо – супервулкан; когда-то он был настолько огромным и извергался так сильно, что провалился сам в себя, образовав кальдеру окружностью 120 км, в центре которой находится горная гряда (Пять Вершин Асо) и нынешний активный кратер Накадакэ, главная местная достопримечательность.

То есть, Асо – очень интересное место с точки зрения рельефа: если встать на краю кальдеры или в её центре, очень хорошо видны очертания воронки и её поразительный масштаб. В самой воронке живут и издревле жили люди, и весь регион богат легендами и мифами, восходящими ко временам основания Японского государства.

На момент моего посещения (начало ноября 2016) вся префектура Кумамото ещё приходила в себя после пары разрушительных землетрясений, которые случились здесь весной. Многие дороги были закрыты из-за обвалов, к самому кратеру ближе, чем на 2 километра, было вообще не подойти. Тем не менее, поездка получилась отличная – в немалой степени благодаря замечательной погоде.

Ехать из Кумамото до Асо примерно час. Сначала я направилась к северному, более обрывистому краю кальдеры – дорога проходит по верху, вдоль неё есть много смотровых площадок, с которых открываются панорамные виды. Отсюда центральная группа гор своими очертаниями напоминает спящего будду, о чём вам сообщат объяснительные таблички. Действительно, очень даже похоже.

Северный край кальдеры Асо
Вид на Пять Вершин со смотровой площадки Дайкамбо

Проехав вдоль северного края, я спустилась вниз, в саму кальдеру, и отправилась в святилище Кокудзо, одно из самых древних местных святилищ, спрятавшееся в тихом уголке под северной стеной и свободное, поэтому, от людей – чего нельзя сказать о святилище Асо, моей следующей остановке. Святилище Асо – главный и самый известный синтоистский храм в здешних краях, там людей всегда много. К сожалению, он сильно пострадал во время землетрясения.

Святилище Кокудзо
Святилище Асо после землятресения

Когда я покончила со святилищем Асо (снимала на видео, как разгребают завалы и краном поднимают упавшую крышу), солнце уже начало клониться к западу, и нужно было двигаться к кратеру, чтобы успеть до темноты. По дороге я заехала в ещё одно маленькое святилище, Симомия, и начала подниматься в горы центральной группы.

Конечной остановкой в тот день стало плато Кусасэнри – там большая автомобильная парковка, и, если пройти от неё чуть-чуть на ближайший холмик, видно Накадакэ. Ближе к кратеру попасть никак было нельзя, но мне и этого хватило: виды оттуда замечательные. Накадакэ был свежеизвергнувшийся и толстодымящий (последнее извержение совпало с весенним землетрясением), и отлично позировал в закатных лучах.

Кратер Накадакэ

В свой отель на южной стороне кальдеры я добралась уже после темноты. Прыгнула в ротэмбуро, поужинала, и быстро пошла спать, чтобы с утра пораньше проснуться и успеть насладиться видом из окна – именно ради него я и решила остановиться в отеле Greenpia Minamiaso. Вид не разочаровал. Один из лучших видов из окна в моей жизни.

Вид из окна на рассвете
Тот же вид час спустя

И в первой половине дня, прежде чем двинуться из Асо в Такатихо, я зашла на источник Сиракава, где мой фотоаппарат внезапно приказал долго жить, чем подпортил мне остаток поездки. Если не вспоминать об этом досадном происшествии, на источнике Сиракава мне понравилось.

Источник Сиракава

Потом я попрощалась с Асо и отправилась на восток.

Фотоальбомы

Северный край кальдеры

Aso 2016 - caldera north rim

Святилище Кокудзо

Aso 2016 - Kokuzo shrine

Святилище Асо

Aso 2016 - Aso shrine

Святилище Симомия

Aso 2016 - Shimomiya

Центральный и южный Асо

Aso 2016 - Central and South Aso

Источник Сиракава

Aso 2016 - Shirakawa

Posted in Япония
Tagged кюсю, храм, синто, природа
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архитектура буддизм история кюсю музей никко онсэн префектура яманаси сакура синто тихоокеанский северо-запад токио храм штат вашингтон

4 Continents Explored
30 Countries Visited
250 000 KM Traveled
15 000 Photos Taken

amenohitravels

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#chiangmai #watchediluang #chiangmaioldcity #thaitemple #discoverthailand #nomadictravel #buddhisttemple #chiangmailife #femalesolotraveler
Day 4 of my Iceland Ring Road trip was a rainy day Day 4 of my Iceland Ring Road trip was a rainy day. Very, very rainy day. When they say, don’t come to Iceland without proper raingear – believe it. Even if it’s not raining, you’ll get drenched at larger waterfalls in seconds if you’re not covered from head to toe. Today my raingear proved its worth, especially the pair of rainpants that I last wore 10 years ago and almost passed down to someone who needs them more. Thank goodness I put them in my bag last minute.

I didn’t have to cover a lot of ground today (another lucky thing), so I spent all of my time in Skogar that apart from one very famous waterfall has another waterfall and a very nice local museum.

I actually liked the less famous waterfall (Kvernufoss) more. It’s smaller, but has more character to it. Skogafoss is cool but very… straightforward :)

And this night I’m staying in Vik. Have you seen TV show “Katla”? Yes, there :) Upon my arrival it wasn’t covered in volcanic ash, but was covered in fog, so I still don’t know what it normally looks like. Hopefully tomorrow :)

#iceland
#icelandroadtrip
#skogar 
#icelandringroad 
#skogarmuseum 
#travelnomad 
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#roadtrip 
#kvernufoss 
#skogafoss 
#icelandwaterfall
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Absolutely stunning place. This is just a small pa Absolutely stunning place. This is just a small part of the waterfall.

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A very spontaneous trip to Mexico. First time, and A very spontaneous trip to Mexico. First time, and there's a lot to discover here. I'll be back.

#teotihuacan #mexicanpyramids #teotihuacanpyramids #pyramidofthemoon #discovermexico  #mexicotravel #pyramids
Sunset at Key West, Florida. #floridakeys #florid Sunset at Key West, Florida.

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Day 11 of my Iceland Ring Road trip consisted of a Day 11 of my Iceland Ring Road trip consisted of a 3.5 hour drive between one museum and another, with an added bonus of 26 miles of dirt road under the pouring rain after that. Welcome to Westfjords.

Glaumbaer is a beautifully reconstructed historic turf house farm – probably the most impressive turf house I’ve seen so far in Iceland. I’ve seen a number of them already, and each time I can’t help but think how fortunate I am not to be born on this beautiful land in 18-19 century. Or any time before, for that matter.

My second museum of the day was Icelandic Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft, of the necropants fame. Look it up, it’s hilarious – and I won’t be posting it here, it’s kind of not work-safe :) How did people even think of something like this? Necropants isn’t the only weird example of Icelandic medieval superstition on display at the museum (tilberi are crazy too) but definitely the most well known.

Today I’ve also accepted the fact that dirt roads in Iceland are unavoidable. I’m not talking about the Highlands even, I’m talking about regular peripheral roads that start out perfectly paved, but then after a while turn into dirt without any indication for how long or how bad. It can be a mile, 10 miles or 30. Can be washboard, can be potholes, can be excavators digging in the middle of the road. There’s absolutely no way to know ahead, the internet doesn’t help much. Today I drove on a very decent dirt road – and on a rather scary one that some people online called okay.

Anyways. The end of the day was exhilarating. The scenery around my former fish factory dormitory is majestic, though. Is it worth the security deposit on my already scratched car? I don’t know. We’ll see :)

#westfjords
#amazingiceland 
#travelnomad 
#discovericeland 
#icelandroadtrip 
#travelette 
#girlslovetravel 
#femalesolotraveler 
#solotraveler 
#solotravel 
#globetrotter
Some unknown beauty on Whale Island - Vietnam #vie Some unknown beauty on Whale Island - Vietnam
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Waterfall in Dubai Mall 💙 #dubaimall #dubaimal Waterfall in Dubai Mall 💙

#dubaimall #dubaimallwaterfall #uae #dubaidowntown #shoppingmall #modernarchitecture #waterfeature
Springtime in Duvall. I didn't have to travel far Springtime in Duvall. I didn't have to travel far for that ☺️

#pnwspring #pnwlife #washingtonstate #springblossoms #smalltown #duvallwa #smalltownlife #pacificnorthwest #smalltownamerica
Cute little deer in Ocean Shores, WA #oceanshores Cute little deer in Ocean Shores, WA

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Torii gates of Fukiage shrine (Imabari, Japan) #i Torii gates of Fukiage shrine (Imabari, Japan)

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San Juan Island, American Camp Historic landmark a San Juan Island, American Camp
Historic landmark and beautiful viewpoint with amazing vistas.

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Autumn in New York 🍂🍂🍂 #autumninnewyork # Autumn in New York
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Cosmos flower against Mt. Fuji - at Lake Shoji, Ya Cosmos flower against Mt. Fuji - at Lake Shoji, Yamanashi prefecture
🗻🗻🗻
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Starting from today I'm changing the format of thi Starting from today I'm changing the format of this account, making it more of a real time travel blog rather than just a collection of photos. I've decided to try out nomadic travel lifestyle, so I need to ramble about it somewhere :)

I will be spending 3 weeks in Iceland, followed by 5 weeks in France (if France doesn't close its border to Americans by then, which I sincerely hope it doesn't).

This is my first look at Reykjavik. Gloomy, but beautiful. Looking forward to the Ring Road trip.

#reykjavik #iceland #nomadictravel #travelnomad #traveliceland #discovericeland #icelandtravel #nordicvibes
Goritsky monastery of Dormition in Pereslavl-Zales Goritsky monastery of Dormition in Pereslavl-Zalessky, Russia

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Lake Union park, Seattle #lakeunion #seattle #was Lake Union park, Seattle

#lakeunion #seattle #washingtonstate #pacificnorthwest #seattlelife #southlakeunion #pnw #pnwlife #discoverwashington #visitseattle #pnwphotography
Day 8 of my Iceland Ring Road trip was a long day, Day 8 of my Iceland Ring Road trip was a long day, mainly due to long driving times, but I’ve had other challenges as well. After a beautiful morning at Seyðisfjörður (the most charming little town I’ve seen in Iceland so far) I headed to Borgarfjordur eystri – one detour I planned to make on my way to Mývatn. It’s a very remote place in the northern part of Eastfjords knows for its scenery and elves (among other things). I wanted to go mainly for the elves, but scenery was also a consideration. Anyways, all was good until I hit the unpaved section of the road that I didn’t know about, and my GPS was telling me that I still had 32 miles to go. I almost turned back at this point - 32 miles of gravel road on a rental Toyota Yaris is very unpleasant - but eventually decided to google and found out that it’s just one section of the road. So I bravely went ahead – the section turned out to be just 8 miles long (still unpleasant, but doable). I was rewarded with amazing vistas from the remaining of the road – and the wonderful experience at Álfaborg (Elf Rock). If you’re a meditator, spiritual practitioner or just a person with heightened sensitivity – I recommend. Very interesting power spot in Iceland.

Today was also the day I got myself acquainted with Icelandic police. I was wondering since day 1 how much police is there in Iceland and where they all are – and also why some people on the road are driving too fast, while others are driving too slow. I was probably thinking too loud, so the Universe granted me with answers. The police is, obviously, on the Ring Road, and people who are driving too fast simply haven’t encountered them yet :)

Anyways, the officer was very kind and let me off with a warning. Now I’ll be joining the ranks of the slow people on the road :)

Total driving time today (without stops) – 6 hours. Staying at Mývatn for 2 nights – let’s see how much of it I can explore under the forecasted rain. Today I just stopped at Námaskarð Pass to take pictures of colorful fumaroles.

#borgafjordureystri 
#myvatn 
#icelandroadtrip 
#icelandringroad 
#amazingiceland 
#discovericeland 
#travelette 
#femalesolotraveler 
#solotraveler 
#solotravel
When I studied French in school I used to know a l When I studied French in school I used to know a lot about Paris. Most of this knowledge has faded away together with my French, but even for those bits and pieces that remain, learning about it is not the same as seeing it with your own eyes. And it isn’t just about seeing either. I’ve actually been to Paris twice before but so briefly I couldn’t get any real feel of the city. The impression I got then wasn’t even all that good. Now that I’m discovering Paris very, very slowly – avoiding the crowds, going with the flow of the weather – all those places from textbooks and articles in my childhood for the first time come to life for me.

#lepantheon
#latinquarter
#quartierlatin
#loveparis
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#pantheon
#nomadictravel
#girlslovetravel
#solotraveler
#solotravel
#femalesolotraveler
#globetrotter
#solotravelingisfun
#travelette
#ladieswhotravel
#mytraveldiary
#your_worldcaptures
#parisarchitecture
Ono waterfall, Kiso valley, Japan
小野の滝 (長野県), 木曽八景の一つ

#kisoji #kisovalley #naganoprefecture  #ononotaki #japanfocus #japantravel #小野の滝 #木曽路 #木曽八景 #waterfall #nagano #japan #япония #loves_nippon #ilovejapan #discoverjapan #waterfallphotography
Frangipani flower in a pond, Thailand. #thailand Frangipani flower in a pond, Thailand.

#thailand #nature #flower #frangipani  #tropicalflowers #naturephotography
At Hasedera temple, Nara prefecture, #Japan 奈良 At Hasedera temple, Nara prefecture, #Japan
奈良県の長谷寺

#hasederatemplenara #hasedera #naraprefecture #nara #japantravel #japanesetemple #buddhisttemple #長谷寺 #奈良県 #奈良県長谷寺 #japanfocus #japan_vacations
O-henro pilgrim at Zenjibuji, temple number 32 of O-henro pilgrim at Zenjibuji, temple number 32 of Shikoku pilgrimage
四国遍路第32番札所で

#shikokuhenro  #shikokupilgrimage #四国遍路 #shikoku #japan #japantravel #japan_vacations #pilgrimage #四国八十八ヶ所
Day 2 of Iceland Ring Road trip. I spent the day Day 2 of Iceland Ring Road trip.

I spent the day zigzagging around southwestern Iceland, visiting locations from Dorothy Dunnett’s “House of Niccolo” series. It so happens that each one of them has a church, so it turned out to be a church day, which was perfectly fine by me – Icelandic churches have tons of charm. Today was also my first introduction to turf houses – they are super cute, looking forward to seeing more of them up north.

Where I’ve been today:

Skalholt – one big historic church and a little one inside a turf house.

Stori-nupur – nice little church nestled under a picturesque cliffside.

Skard – charming tiny church in the middle of nowhere. Beautiful Hekla views. Yummy mushrooms growing at the cemetery :) 

Keldur – long dirt road (grrrr), amazing location and turf houses. The church was, unfortunately, under renovation.

Hlidarendi – for some it’s an important Saga place, for me it’s a Dunnett place :) Beautiful church in a beautiful location.

#icelandringroad 
#iceland 
#icelandchurch 
#icelandturfhouse 
#turfhouse 
#travelnomad 
#nomadictravel 
#icelandroadtrip 
#amazingiceland 
#icelandtravel 
#discovericeland
Enjoying sunset at Hofn. #iceland #höfn #femal Enjoying sunset at Hofn.

#iceland 
#höfn 
#femalesolotraveler 
#solotravel 
#solotraveler 
#travelette 
#girlslovetravel 
#discovericeland 
#icelandtravel
Day 1 of the Ring Road trip. The weather is harsh Day 1 of the Ring Road trip.

The weather is harsh: can be windy, can be chilly, and it can rain anytime. The landscape is majestic – love those endless green slopes completely devoid of trees. I know this is not how it was supposed to be (deforestation etc.), but I still think it’s beautiful. Reminds me of Hawaii, Lord Howe Island and New Zealand (just a little bit).

What I saw today:

Helgufoss waterfall – skippable.

Thorufoss waterfall – beautiful.

Geysir geothermal area – it’s not Yellowstone, not even Rotorua or Beppu, but trying to catch the geyser on camera was fun (see reel).

Gullfoss waterfall – simply stunning. This was the highlight of my day (see reel).

Secret Lagoon – well… nobody does hot springs better than the Japanese, that’s the fact.

And so far I’m really enjoying Icelandic food. Yes, it’s pricy, but tastes really good. I was expecting something along the lines of British (didn’t have the best food experience in London). Happy to be pleasantly surprised.

#icelandringroad
#iceland
#goldencircleiceland
#ringroadiceland
#nomadictravel
#travelnomad 
#amazingiceland 
#icelandgoldencircle 
#discovericeland 
#icelandtravel
#icelandroadtrip
This was stupendous too 😁 Tidewater glaciers ar This was stupendous too 😁
Tidewater glaciers are amazing. The way they calve, when if you're too far, it takes time for the sound to travel, so you first see it, and only then hear it. Amazing.

#amazingalaska #tidewaterglacier #glacier #arcticphotography #iceberg #discoveralaska #kenaifjords #kenaifjordsnationalpark #northernnature #northernexposure #solotraveler #traveldiaries #your_worldcaptures #sewardalaska
As one person next to me said at the top: this is As one person next to me said at the top: this is stupendous.
I totally agree 😁

#juneaualaska #juneau #mtrobertstramway #mountrobertstramway #ropeway #amazingalaska #alaskatravel #discoveralaska #discoverjuneau #solotraveler #alaskasummer #your_worldcaptures #wanderlust #mytraveldiary
I have discovered this cute little town on the way I have discovered this cute little town on the way to Port Townsend. I might have heard the name before, but had no idea it's such a nice place. After more than ten years, Pacific Northwest still surprises me.

#portgamble #smalltownamerica #americanarchitecture #victorianhouse #pacificnorthwest #olympicpeninsula #historictown #pnwlife #pnwspring #cutehouse #discoverwashington #washingtonstate #travelwashington
Lotus blooming in Miidera temple - Otsu, Shiga pre Lotus blooming in Miidera temple - Otsu, Shiga prefecture, Japan. From my summer 2018 Japan trip.

#miidera #miideratemple #otsu #shigaprefecture #japantravel #natureshots #lotus #lotusflower #japansummer #三井寺 #滋賀県 #大津市
Enjoying Dynjandi waterfall. One of the highlights Enjoying Dynjandi waterfall. One of the highlights of my day.

#dynjandi 
#dynjandiwaterfall 
#dynjandifoss 
#westfjords 
#amazingiceland 
#girlslovetravel 
#femalesolotraveler 
#travelnomad 
#solotravel 
#globetrotter 
#discovericeland 
#remoteplaces 
#icelandwaterfall 
#traveliceland
#solotravelingisfun
Beautiful theater in Mexico City. The folk dance p Beautiful theater in Mexico City. The folk dance performance was amazing too.

#theater #palaciodebellasartes #cdmx #operahouse #discovermexico  #architecture #discovercdmx #theatergoer #lovetheater #iamatraveler #culturaltourism #femalesolotraveler
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